Trip Date: November 27, 2021
This was one of the many trips we have taken with Kristen’s sister Jo’s family. We have done a Hawaii cruise, Bahamas’, and Alaska cruise, as well as gone to Yellowstone together. This trip we went to Kauai and stayed at a fantastic place on Poipu Beach just outside the town of Koloa. Sean and Nick and their families stayed a few blocks up the hill in a massive place of their own. We could see Brennecke’s Beach from the lanai of our place, across a palm dotted grassy lawn. We were in heaven.
K and I flew in first from Sacramento and were the first to arrive at the rental. The others would not arrive for several hours so we walked down the beach and ended up at Brennecke’s Beach Broiler, a super cool 2 story place right across the narrow street from Poipu Park and beach. We walked upstairs to the bustling dining room and tiny bar. The super nice folks cleared a spot at the bar and we cozied up. It didn’t take but a few minutes before we were joined by a gregarious semi-local who acted like he owned the joint and knew everybody.
It wasn’t exactly what I was looking for, but he was entertaining. He chatted us up about his college football career and his place on the island and his children visiting and this, that, and certainly the other. At some point, he asked us if we ever had a Koloa Rum and we said we hadn’t. He exuberantly called out to the young bartender and ordered 3 shots. I have to say it was delicious and he called for a ride home shortly thereafter, so I will forever be in his debt. The food was great and the setting was perfect; it was a great beginning to our trip.
Rick and Jo arrived and Bailey ended up staying with us in the downstairs apartment. Nick and Sean’s families didn’t arrive until late that night, so we all gathered that day. I took an early morning walk down the beach to check things out and saw an area of Poipu Beach that was roped off for the giant Green Turtles. I assume at some time of the year they lay their eggs here, but now they apparently just like to come up on the beach and hang out, so much of the little children’s area of Poipu was roped off.
The next day was basically a beach day with the kids raging most of the time in the waves of Brennecke’s Beach. The waves were better and the wake boarding and thrashing about was great for the kids. They got to swim with the turtles and of course got too close and got scolded by the locals for harassing them. I was on the turtles’ side. This was our night to go out to a nice dinner so we stayed pretty close. We went into Koloa town to do some shopping and get the feel of the area and what was around.
Part of the fun of coming to Kauai was that both Dennis and Steve had spent time here, Dennis especially. They stayed a little further up the coast, but often came to Poipu Beach for the day. They both recommended the same restaurant for our night out, so we made reservations at the Beach House Restaurant, which was only about 10 miles away. Rick let us borrow their rental car and we arrived just before sunset. I had a lively discussion with the bartender who seemed a bit confused about exactly what a good Manhattan was, but we got our cocktails and got outside just in time to enjoy a spectacular Hawaii sunset. It was an awesome time.
We struck up a conversation with an older couple and their daughter and her husband. They were super nice Midwesterners and we talked college football and kids and Hawaii. We toasted Steve and Nancy at 6:30 who happened to be at restaurant on the Big Island at the exact same time. We were called in for dinner and enjoyed a fabulous meal in the open air dining room. It was all just incredible.
The next day, I had planned to take Kristen on a hike I had found doing my pre-trip research. You could literally walk from our place, mostly along the beach, to the Makauwahi Cave Reserve. After much discussion and gnashing of teeth, the whole crew cam with us. We decided to drive some of the way to a trail access and hike from there. It was awesome. The scenery was spectacular, and we got the added bonus of walking on the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail, along a few holes of the Poipu Bay Golf Course, past the Waiopili Heiau, and eventually made the caves. They were a big hit and much more than I had expected.
It was like an old hippie commune had taken care of the caves and started a very cool farm, which was in part cleared by giant tortoises, which they still had running around in huge pens. It was very cool. We didn’t have time to stay too long, and eventually ended up walking back most of the way with Sean Sharidy, and Molina. Molina was a bit whiny, so on the way back, at Shipwreck Beach, she and I ventured into the surf. I should have known better. Every day had been breezy since we arrived, but it is always breezy in Hawaii. Nearly every beach had the red flags up, but again, really, nearly every beach?
So it was with a fair amount of trepidation that we entered the surf. This was not the beach to push the warning label. Molina was afraid from the get go, so she barely went out. I, on the other hand, was determined. The first wave hit my like Darren Cde Bacca and the next one put me on my back and knocked the wind out of me. It took me a moment to get my shit together and gather my shattered cool. It took me another moment to realize my new prescription glasses had been ripped off my face and were gone forever. Oh, well, I didn’t have much dignity to start with.
Sean had probably seen the whole thing and came out to rescue his daughter. We retreated to the calmer waters of the lagoon at the Grand Hyatt for a cocktail. From there we made a 15 minute stroll back to our parked car into an hour marathon of bad information and mistaken identity. We were hysterical by the time we looped the parking lot several times, but in our defense, you can’t see the parking lots from the beach, so, it really wasn’t our fault and simply added a few more steps to our trek. Fortunately we just had to waddle up to the kids house were dinner was prepared for us.
The next day we split up and drove our crew up into Waimea Canyon with Sharidi, Molina, K, and Jade. On the way up, we took a random side road that brought us to a super cute little old town of Hanapepe. It is a place I would love to go back to. In recounting our trip to Dennis, he was fairly certain that was the town he and Lissa had bought some paintings that they love and adorn their home. Up Waimea Canyon on Steve’s advice, we stopped at a couple of the Lookouts and at the Red Dirt Waterfall. We eventually got to the end of the road at Pu’u O Kila Lookout and had a spectacular view of the Na Pali Coast. It was a great day of short little hikes and spectacular vistas.
On the way home, we stumbled into Da Booze Shop, which used to be a liquor store, but now is just sandwiches. They had a cute little poster with the story of their shop and how they changed business models. We took our food across the street to Hoffgard Park and at on the benches with the kitties and birdies. We were just finishing up when Nick and his crew arrived. They had taken a more strenuous hike into some part of Waimea Canyon, so we swapped adventure stories while they ate. Back at the house, we cleaned up and then again went up to the kids place for dinner.
The next day, K wanted to take Jo into town for a girl’s day and massage. They were able to make a reservation at a place in Lihue at one of the resorts. I had been craving for some old world Hawaii, but since nobody else was into that sort of thing, I was left to my own devises. Perfect! I wanted to bring Kristen on a morning walk where I had explored before and Rick was up for it too, so the 3 of us headed out past Poipu Beach, and hit the Honu Bar outdoor restaurant of the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club. It was super early and our waiter was cool.
Eventually K and Jo headed to the massage and I headed the opposite direction. I drove out Lawai Road, past the Beach House to the Kukui’ula Park and harbor. I watched a few boats launch and some of the comings and goings, then headed up the road a piece to the Spouting Horn Park and blow hole. There were a few people there, but everybody was polite and considerate of each other wanting to take pictures in the best spot and at the best moment. I got my fill and then traipsed across the street to McBryde and Allerton Gardens.
This was not only a cool botanical garden but it was also hosting a crafts fair. Finally I had found some old world Hawaii. I could hear the music and as I followed the sound down this path and that surrounded by thick tall lush foliage, I finally found the clearing with the stage and 2 magnificent hula dancers. Hardly anybody was up close or paying attention so I got right in there and grabbed a seat. I was mesmerized, both by the music and the beautiful girls. A lady was interpreting all their movement and motion of the hands, heads, and feet. It was just what I had been longing for.
When they finished up, I took a picture with them and gave them a donation to help with travel costs for an upcoming hula competition they were attending. Once they finished up, a large old lady came up on stage with her ukulele and a young dude with a guitar and they proceeded to play the loveliest old Hawaiian music. I listened to them for an hour or so and when they finished another guy came up and played more music. It was fantastic. I decided to wander around and look at the vendors.
Before I got too far, I came to a table with a massive Hawaiian dude, his beautiful Hawaiian wife, and their 2 little girls. A couple of other old timers were sitting around helping or just doing their thing. The big dude was making traditional palm frond hats, just like the one my grandmother used to wear. I was astounded to see them as we had asked around at a few other shops and nobody even knew what I was talking about, or so it seemed. He was making a taller hat with a narrower brim than I wanted so I asked him if he could make a slightly different one. No problem he said patting me on the shoulder and causing some pain. He took one frond and measured my head with it, then said come back in an hour. I was ecstatic.
I looked at all the vendors, walked the paths again, walked just about everywhere I could and finally returned to the table. He laughed and apologetically said he hadn’t even started. His wife yelled over that it was doubtful he would ever make it, but he seemed intent, perhaps picking up on my intensity to get it. He said give him another half hour. I went and browsed the plant sale and walked a few loops again. Upon returning to the booth, he sat the hat on my head and it was too small. His wife yelled over to just take it and stretch it out, but he wouldn’t have it. Super apologetically, he asked for another 20 minutes and he would make it right.
I went over in the shade to listen to more music, now growing impatient and keeping one eye on my guy. Eventually I went back and he not only had my hat, but had made flower, fishing pole, line and a fish on the end of it that dangled down by my knees. He was very pleased with himself and I was super appreciative. When I pulled out my credit card, he sheepishly said they could only take cash. He didn’t have the credit card thing, and even had ridden the bus with the family and all their gear and material all the way from the other side of the island. I went up to the ticket booth of the garden and they didn’t have an ATM, but said there was one in town.
I went back to my big guy and told him my situation. It was getting late and near closing time for the fair, but I promised him I would be back. I took the hat and headed out to the parking lot wondering what he and his crew might be thinking. I got to the ATM and back in a reasonable amount of time and was happy to hand over the cash with a little extra. I was super happy; he was super happy. It was the perfect end to a great day in paradise.
The next morning I took a huge walk down the beach again, past Marriott’s and a few other ocean-front resorts, weaving in and out of the beach accesses and the paths through the resorts. I passed RumFire waterfront restaurant that I passed along to Rick and he ended up taking Jo there for a dinner. I got back out to the street and followed a great walking path making time down Hoonani Road to Koloa Landing. The rest of the day was spent watching the kids take surfing lessons and scuba diving.
That night I volunteered to BBQ some fresh fish for the gang. I had a ball shopping for the fish and talking to locals to get their recommendations on what to buy and where to buy it. I ended up buying several pounds of tuna and Mahi mahi. I was a little disappointed they didn’t have anything a little more exotic, but at least this fish seemed fresh. We went up to the big house, which was quite massive and sat upon a tall hill. The views were expansive; not only over the ocean but East over the flat shoulders and higher up into the steep canyons and eventually all the way to the top of the jagged narrow ridges. I was alone out on the deck watching an incredible sunset, BBQing fresh fish in Hawaii, with copious cocktails, while everyone else was inside behind drawn curtains. I don’t understand.
I know we had some sides and a salad, but I didn’t care. The fish was excellent, and I was really happy the kids at least tried it. I think some of the adults liked it, but I am sure nobody really appreciated what they were eating. It was a great dinner and we were in bed early which set us up for a reasonable departure to the far end of the island tomorrow. Although we didn’t leave as early as I would have liked to, not early at all really, we did get out.
I wanted to see the Kilauea Light House, Princeville, Hanalei, and Wainiha, all on the far side of the island, and all recommended by Dennis to try to see. K and I jumped in our rental car to make it happen, but we didn’t get too far before we took a detour to Wailua Falls. It was unexpected, but worthwhile, even though it ate up more time to see the many places we also wanted to see. We made it through tons of construction and past the destroyed Coco Palms where Elvis made some of his movies. It was sad to see nothing but concrete ruins after all these years. Kapa’a looked cool, but not enough time.
We stopped in Kilauea at a place with some giant photos of old Asian farm workers which I thought held promise of some old Hawaiian charm, but were super disappointed at what is there now. We headed out to the lighthouse and it was closed, so we had to settle for a couple far off photos. We headed to Princeville but as we took the turn, or what I thought was the turn, it was like turning into a massive gated community. Guard house and fountains and golf courses, it about made me hurl. I looped the first round about and we headed out to Hanalei.
The overlook of Hanalei valley and river is a must and the little town is even better. The narrow streets and small shops and mellow vibe is exactly what I was looking for. I wanted to get all the way to the end of the road where the Na Pali Coast Wilderness begins, so we breezed on through to Ha’ena Beach and the Maniniholo Cave across the road. A few more miles and we were at Haena State Park and the official end of the road. It would have been great to be able to walk into the park a few miles, but not today. We headed back into town famished and hunting for food.
We got a recommendation from a local vendor for the Hanalei Gourmet, a place in the Hanalei Center, across the street from Ching Young Village in the old Hanalei School House that is now a tiny shopping mall. It was perfect. The people were nice and we could sit outside on the deck and watch the happenings of town. The food was good and tour drinks were good. On the inside were paintings done by one of the waitresses. One was talking to me, so we got her phone number. I called her when we were back home just to tell her how beautiful her work was and suggesting she get more exposure. Next door was a very cool art store with some outdoor exhibits and storyboards with photos. It was a fantastic day.
Our last night in town, we went into Old Koloa town which has a massive old plantation building and some really good photos and storyboards. It has a great ice cream shop so K, Sharidi, Molina, Jade, and I went for ice creams. While we were there, I noticed a pizza place and an art gallery that I really wish I had seen before. Unfortunately this was the last night. I called the ice cream shop and the soap shop after we got home to try to figure out the name of the art place, but I could not. Oh well, next time.
Kauai Trip Photo Gallery
